How to Use a Tow-Behind Aerator: Setup, Weight, Speed and Technique

Last updated: October 2026 · Written by the LawnVibe editorial team.

For lawns of half an acre or more, pushing a walk-behind aerator around can take most of a day. A tow-behind aerator hooked to a riding mower or lawn tractor covers the same ground in a fraction of the time. But tow-behind units need the right setup to work: the wrong weight, speed or turning technique leaves short cores, torn turf and missed strips. This guide explains how to use a tow behind aerator properly, from hitching and weighting it to driving patterns and aftercare.

For the general aeration method, see our main guide on how to aerate a lawn.

When a tow-behind aerator makes sense

Tow-behind aerators are a good fit when:

• Your lawn is large, roughly half an acre or more, where a walk-behind machine would take hours.
• You already own a riding mower or lawn tractor with a hitch.
• You aerate every year and want to stop paying rental fees.
• You want to aerate and overseed large areas efficiently.

For small or very cluttered lawns with many beds and trees, a walk-behind or manual aerator is easier to maneuver. If you are unsure whether to buy or rent, see our comparison of DIY vs professional lawn aeration.

Types of tow-behind aerators

Plug aerators with spoon-shaped or hollow tines give the most benefit on compacted soil. Spike models are lighter and cheaper but do little for real compaction.

Before you start: setup checklist

Step 1: Choose the right day

Aerate when the grass is actively growing and the soil is moist but firm, usually a day after about an inch of rain or irrigation. Dry soil is the main reason tow-behind aerators fail to penetrate. Avoid soggy soil, which ruts under the tractor and clogs tines.

Watering a large lawn takes time, so plan ahead. Run your irrigation system or sprinklers the evening before, or schedule aeration for the day after a forecast soaking rain.

Step 2: Prepare the lawn

• Mow at your normal height.
• Flag sprinkler heads, valve boxes, shallow irrigation lines, pet fence wires and septic components.
• Remove toys, hoses, branches and stones.
• Plan your route: long, straight runs with room to turn at each end.

If your property has a septic system, find the tank and drain field on a site plan and keep the aerator away from them.

Step 3: Hitch the aerator

1. Park the tractor on level ground and set the parking brake.
2. Back up to the aerator's tongue and line up the hitch holes.
3. Insert the hitch pin and secure it with its clip.
4. Check that the aerator sits level. If it tilts forward or backward, adjust the tongue or hitch height as the manual describes.

Step 4: Add weight

Weight is the single biggest factor in how deep a tow-behind aerator cores. Most tow-behind aerators have a weight tray, and the weight in it is what drives the tines into the soil.

• Use purpose-made weights, sandbags or concrete blocks secured so they cannot slide.
• Spread weight evenly across the tray.
• Stay within the manufacturer's limit.
• Start with moderate weight, test and add more if cores are short.

Step 5: Lower the tines and test

Testing first takes only a couple of minutes and saves you from aerating the whole lawn with the wrong setup.

Use the transport lever to lower the tines. Drive a short test strip at low speed, then stop and check the cores. Plugs about 2 to 3 inches long mean good setup. If they are short, check soil moisture first, then add weight or slow down. See our guide on aerator tine depth for adjustments.

Plug tines vs spoon tines

Many tow-behind plug aerators use spoon-shaped tines rather than fully hollow tubes. A spoon tine enters the soil, scoops a core and flips it onto the surface as the wheel turns. The result looks similar to hollow-tine coring, though cores may be shorter and more irregular. Hollow tines on some heavier units pull more uniform cores. Either type removes soil, which is the key difference from solid spikes. Keep spoon tines straight and sharp; bent spoons tear turf instead of lifting cores.

Step 6: Drive in straight, overlapping passes

• Use a low gear and a steady, slow speed.
• Drive in straight lines, overlapping slightly so you do not leave untreated strips.
• Make a second pass at an angle on compacted areas, such as paths and play zones.
• Look back occasionally to check that tines are turning and cores are coming out.

Step 7: Raise tines for turns

This single habit prevents most of the turf damage people blame on tow-behind aerators.

Turning with tines in the ground tears turf and strains the hitch. Raise the tines with the transport lever before every turn, make wide turns and lower them again when lined up for the next pass.

How long it takes

Coverage depends on the aerator's width, your speed, the number of passes and how many obstacles you work around. A wide tow-behind unit can cover a large open lawn in a fraction of the time a walk-behind machine needs. Plan extra time for loading weights, testing cores, a second pass on compacted areas and cleanup afterward.

Safety tips

• Read both the aerator and mower manuals before towing.
• Keep children, pets and bystanders well away.
• Never ride on the aerator or let anyone else ride on it.
• Disengage the mower blades while towing unless the aerator manual specifically allows mowing at the same time.
• Turn off the engine and set the parking brake before adjusting, clearing or unhitching.
• Wear sturdy shoes and hearing protection.

Working on slopes

• Drive across moderate slopes rather than straight up and down only if your mower manual allows it; otherwise follow its slope guidance.
• Reduce weight on slopes if the tractor struggles for traction.
• Avoid steep slopes entirely with a tractor and towed load.
• Never make sharp turns on a slope.

Mowing patterns that work

Large lawns aerate faster with a planned pattern.

• Perimeter first. Make one or two laps around the edge to create a turning area, then work back and forth inside it.
• Long rows. Run the longest dimension of the lawn to minimize turns.
• Second pass at an angle. On compacted areas, cross your first rows at about 45 degrees or at right angles for more holes.
• Obstacles. Raise the tines and drive around trees, beds and utilities rather than trying to aerate tight spaces. Treat those areas later with a manual aerator.

Troubleshooting on the day

Cores are short or missing. Water and wait a day, add weight within the limit, slow down and check tine condition.

The aerator bounces. Slow down, add weight and check that the hitch keeps the unit level.

Tines are clogging. The soil is probably too wet or sticky. Wait for it to firm up and clear the tines with the engine off.

The mower is losing traction. Reduce weight, avoid wet slopes and make sure the mower's tires are properly inflated.

The aerator pulls to one side. Check tire pressure on both wheels, look for bent tines on one side and make sure the weight is centered.

For more detailed fixes, see our guide on tow-behind aerator problems.

Choosing a towing vehicle

Most riding mowers and lawn tractors with a rear hitch can pull a lightweight tow-behind aerator, but heavier units loaded with weight need more traction and braking. Check your mower manual for towing capacity and slope limits. Lawn tractors and garden tractors handle heavy aerators better than small rear-engine riders. Zero-turn mowers can tow some aerators, but their steering can make straight lines and gentle turns harder, so check the manufacturer's guidance before towing.

Overseeding with a tow-behind aerator

Aerating right before overseeding gives seed excellent contact with soil. Some tow-behind units have a built-in seed or fertilizer hopper that drops material as you aerate. Otherwise, aerate first and follow with a tow-behind or push spreader. Spread seed at the rate on the bag in two directions, then water to keep the seedbed moist. Our main guide on how to overseed a lawn covers seed rates and aftercare.

Common mistakes with tow-behind aerators

• Aerating dry soil and getting no cores.
• Driving too fast, so the aerator bounces.
• Using too little weight, or more than the manufacturer allows.
• Turning with the tines down and tearing turf.
• Forgetting to raise the tines before crossing driveways and sidewalks.
• Towing a heavily weighted aerator on slopes beyond the mower's limits.
• Leaving weights in the tray during storage.

Choosing a tow-behind aerator

If you are buying, consider the width, which affects how fast you cover the lawn, the tine type, with plug tines being better than spikes for compaction, the weight tray capacity, the transport lever design, the tire type and the hitch fit for your mower. Our roundup of the best tow-behind aerator compares models for large lawns.

After aerating

• Leave the plugs on the lawn to break down.
• Overseed and fertilize if planned, while holes are fresh.
• Raise the tines, remove weights and clean the aerator.
• Check tines and hitch hardware for damage.

For cleaning and storage steps, see our guide on cleaning and storing a lawn aerator. If something is not working, see tow-behind aerator problems.

University extension services, such as Purdue Extension Turfgrass Science, explain aeration timing and core depth for home lawns.

The bottom line

To use a tow behind aerator well, aerate moist soil during active growth, hitch it level, load the weight tray within the manufacturer's limit and test on a short strip for 2 to 3-inch cores. Drive slowly in straight, overlapping passes, raise the tines before every turn and make a second pass on compacted areas. Work carefully on slopes, leave the plugs to break down and clean and unload the aerator when you finish.

Frequently Asked Questions