Last updated: October 2026 · Written by the LawnVibe editorial team.
In the South and much of the transition zone, lawns turn from green to tan as fall cools into winter. That color change is warm-season grass winter dormancy, a natural survival response in Bermudagrass, zoysia, St. Augustine, centipede and bahiagrass. Dormant grass is not dead, but how you treat it in fall and winter affects how quickly and evenly it greens up in spring. This guide explains how each grass behaves, the care steps that matter and the mistakes that cause winter injury.
For cool-season lawns and a full cold-season overview, see our hub guide on how to prepare your lawn for winter.
What happens during warm-season grass winter dormancy
As temperatures fall, warm-season grasses slow their growth and move stored carbohydrates into crowns, roots, rhizomes and stolons. After frost, the leaves turn tan. Underground, the plant is alive and resting, using those reserves to survive until spring. The healthier the grass is going into fall, the larger its reserves and the better it handles winter.
How common warm-season grasses behave
| Grass | Typical dormancy behavior | Winter care notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bermudagrass | Turns tan after first frosts; very cold-hardy for a warm-season grass | Tolerates traffic poorly while dormant; good ryegrass overseeding candidate |
| Zoysia | Goes dormant early in fall; greens up slowly in spring | Dense thatch; avoid overseeding; keep leaves off |
| St. Augustine | May stay partly green in mild winters; sensitive to hard freezes | Raise mowing height before winter; vulnerable to winterkill |
| Centipede | Light dormancy; sensitive to cold and to fertilizer late in the season | Avoid late-season nitrogen; minimal winter care |
| Bahiagrass | Goes dormant in cooler weather | Low-maintenance; minimal winter care |
Fall and winter care timeline
| Period | What to do |
|---|---|
| Late summer | Final fertilizer for most warm-season grasses; fall pre-emergent where needed |
| Early fall | Raise mowing height slightly; reduce watering as growth slows |
| After first frosts | Stop mowing once growth stops; keep leaves off |
| Winter | Limit traffic, control winter weeds, water in long dry spells |
| Late winter | Scalp or mow low before green-up where appropriate (Bermuda, zoysia) |
| Spring green-up | Resume feeding after full green-up |
Stop fertilizing at the right time
Warm-season grasses use nitrogen while actively growing. Late-season fertilizing pushes tender growth that is more prone to winter injury and fuels winter weeds once the grass goes dormant. For most warm-season lawns, the final fertilizer application is in late summer, with exact timing depending on your region and grass. Centipede is especially sensitive to late nitrogen. Our guide on whether to fertilize a lawn in winter explains why dormant turf should not be fed.
Adjust mowing before dormancy
- St. Augustine and centipede: raise the mowing height slightly in fall to leave more leaf area and insulate the crowns.
- Bermuda and zoysia: maintain your normal height as growth slows.
- Stop mowing once the grass stops growing after frost.
A mower that handles low, dense warm-season turf well makes the growing season easier; our guide to the best mower for Bermuda grass compares options.
Control winter weeds
Dormant warm-season lawns give winter annual weeds such as henbit, chickweed and annual bluegrass an open field. A fall pre-emergent applied before these weeds germinate is the most effective prevention. Spot treat or hand pull weeds that appear. See our guide to winter lawn weeds.
Water during long dry spells
Dormant grass uses little water, but completely dry soil over many weeks can kill crowns and runners. In dry winters, water roughly every three to four weeks when the ground is not frozen, enough to moisten the top few inches. In rainy regions, extra water is rarely needed.
Limit traffic on dormant turf
Dormant grass cannot repair itself, so heavy foot traffic, parked cars and play areas wear it down to bare soil by spring. Redirect traffic onto paths and avoid using the lawn as a parking spot.
Keep leaves and debris off
Leaves left on dormant zoysia and St. Augustine trap moisture and can encourage disease. Rake or blow leaves off periodically through late fall and winter.
Winter color options
Overseeding with ryegrass
Bermuda lawns can be overseeded in fall with perennial ryegrass for green winter color. It requires mowing and watering all winter and a managed transition in spring. Zoysia, St. Augustine and centipede are generally poor candidates. Our guide on overseeding with ryegrass covers the process.
Turf colorants
Lawn paints and colorants give dormant turf a green appearance without growth. They are common on golf courses and athletic fields and are an option for homeowners who want winter color without overseeding.
Dormancy in the transition zone
In the middle latitudes of the United States, where both cool- and warm-season grasses are grown, warm-season lawns go dormant earlier in fall and green up later in spring than they do in the Deep South. Winters are cold enough that winterkill is a greater risk, especially for St. Augustine and centipede, which are rarely planted there. Bermuda and zoysia are the most common warm-season choices in the transition zone. Homeowners there should be especially careful to stop fertilizing on time, mow at the right height going into fall and avoid traffic on frozen dormant turf.
Dormancy in mild coastal and southern climates
Along the Gulf Coast, in Florida and in southern California, winters may be mild enough that warm-season grasses slow down but never fully go dormant. St. Augustine in particular may stay partly green. In these areas, mowing may continue at a reduced frequency, watering should match the slower growth, and winter weeds still need attention. Fertilizer schedules vary widely by region and local ordinances, so follow local extension recommendations.
Thatch and dormancy
Zoysia and Bermuda tend to build thatch, a layer of dead stems and runners above the soil. A moderate thatch layer insulates the crowns in winter, but heavy thatch holds moisture, harbors disease and makes the turf more prone to winter injury. Dethatch or core aerate in late spring to early summer, when the grass is growing vigorously and can recover, not in fall before dormancy.
Common mistakes
- Fertilizing in fall or winter, which feeds weeds and invites winter injury.
- Mowing St. Augustine or centipede too short going into fall.
- Letting leaves pile up on dormant zoysia and St. Augustine.
- Using dormant turf for parking, play or regular foot traffic.
- Overseeding zoysia, St. Augustine or centipede with ryegrass.
- Panicking at brown turf in early spring and tearing it out before green-up.
- Dethatching or aerating in fall.
Winterkill risk
Warm-season grasses can suffer winterkill, especially St. Augustine and centipede, during hard freezes, in low spots where water and ice collect, and on north-facing slopes. Reduce risk by avoiding late nitrogen, keeping mowing heights appropriate, improving drainage and avoiding traffic on frozen turf.
Signs of winter injury in spring
Most dormant warm-season lawns green up evenly. Watch for:
- Patches that stay brown weeks after the rest of the lawn has greened, often in low spots or shaded areas.
- Runners and crowns that are soft, brown or mushy when you dig into a brown patch, rather than firm and pale.
- Damage concentrated on north-facing slopes or areas where ice sat for days.
Small injured areas often fill in by early summer as healthy runners spread, especially with Bermuda and St. Augustine. Larger dead areas can be repaired with sod or plugs. Fertilize and water the surrounding healthy grass once it is actively growing to speed recovery. Our guide to repairing winter lawn damage covers additional problems such as voles and salt.
Summer dormancy is different
Warm-season grasses can also go brown in summer, but for a different reason: drought. Summer drought dormancy happens when water runs short during hot weather, and the grass greens up again within days to weeks after rain or irrigation. Winter dormancy is triggered by cold and lasts until soil warms in spring. Watering will not wake a lawn from winter dormancy, but it will revive a drought-dormant lawn in summer.
Should you scalp before spring green-up?
Scalping means mowing a dormant Bermuda or zoysia lawn very low just before green-up and removing the clippings. It clears away dead leaf tissue, lets sunlight warm the soil and can produce a faster, more even green-up. Time it for late winter or early spring, after the risk of hard freezes has mostly passed, and never scalp St. Augustine or centipede, which are damaged by low mowing. Bag or rake up the debris.
Service equipment while you wait
Use the dormant months to sharpen mower blades and service engines before the first spring cut.
Soil testing during dormancy
Winter is a good time to take a soil test, so you know your lawn's pH and nutrient needs before spring feeding begins.
Shade and dormancy
Warm-season grasses in shade, especially Bermuda, enter winter weaker and green up later. Prune trees to increase light, raise mowing heights in shaded areas and consider shade-tolerant St. Augustine varieties or groundcovers where Bermuda struggles.
Pets and dormant lawns
Dogs running the same routes and using the same spots wear dormant turf down quickly, since the grass cannot regrow until spring. A mulched or gravel area for pets, or temporary fencing around sensitive areas, protects the lawn through winter.
How long does dormancy last?
Dormancy length depends on climate. In northern parts of the warm-season range and the transition zone, lawns may be brown from late October or November until April or May. In the Deep South, dormancy may last only a few months, and in the mildest coastal areas, grass may never fully go dormant. Soil temperature is the real trigger: most warm-season grasses resume active growth as soil warms consistently in spring.
Winter checklist for warm-season lawns
- Final fertilizer applied in late summer.
- Fall pre-emergent applied on schedule.
- Mowing height adjusted in early fall.
- Leaves removed regularly.
- Traffic kept to paths.
- Water every few weeks only during long dry spells.
- Mower serviced and ready for spring.
Spring green-up
As soil temperatures rise in spring, warm-season grasses begin to green from the base. Some homeowners lightly scalp Bermuda or zoysia before green-up to remove dead leaf tissue and warm the soil faster. Resume fertilizing only after the lawn has fully greened, usually a few weeks after the last frost.
Southern university extension services publish detailed warm-season lawn calendars; the University of Florida IFAS Extension is one reliable source.
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The bottom line
Warm-season grass winter dormancy is normal and healthy. Prepare for it by stopping fertilizer in late summer, adjusting mowing height in fall, preventing winter weeds, keeping leaves and traffic off the lawn and watering only during long dry spells. Choose ryegrass overseeding or colorants if you want winter color, and resume feeding only after full green-up in spring.
Frequently Asked Questions
When does warm-season grass go dormant?
When soil and air temperatures drop in fall, usually after the first frosts. Growth slows as temperatures cool and the grass turns tan once frost arrives.
Is dormant grass dead?
No. Dormant grass is alive; the crowns, roots and runners are resting. It greens up again in spring when temperatures warm.
Should I fertilize dormant Bermuda grass?
No. Fertilizing dormant warm-season grass feeds weeds rather than the turf and can increase winter injury. Resume feeding after spring green-up.
Should I water dormant grass in winter?
Only during long dry spells, roughly every three to four weeks, so the crowns and roots do not dry out completely.
Can I make my warm-season lawn stay green in winter?
You can overseed Bermuda with perennial ryegrass in fall for winter color, or use turf colorants. Many homeowners simply accept natural dormancy.